A two hour boat ride from Greenville lies a small fishing village called Santa Cruz. In a colorful Fanti boat named Joshua, mom and I went there to spend an afternoon on the beach. And I don’t know if I’ve ever been in a more relaxed setting. The otherwise aggressive Atlantic Ocean was made calmContinue reading “on the shores of Santa Cruz (March 28)”
Category Archives: Uncategorized
Greenville – a tour (March 28)
Greenville is a small town on the central/south-east coast of Liberia. There’s a shopping street where you can buy fabrics and knock-off cosmetics, a small fish market, a harbor full of colorful Fanti fishing boats, children, and a big UNMIL base. And that’s about it. There isn’t even a proper restaurant. But there’s a charm,Continue reading “Greenville – a tour (March 28)”
to the rangers of Sapo (March 26-27)
On our jungle hike in Sapo National Park, we had a group of rangers with us. Solemn men who had grown up in the Sapo village, equipped with machetes and the jungle in their blood. The head ranger, Augustin, didn’t talk much. He was patient. His writing skills were quite rudimentary. But when asked, heContinue reading “to the rangers of Sapo (March 26-27)”
the butterfly expert that never could be
After only three days in Liberia, two of which were hiking in the rain forest, I was painfully made aware of my physical unfitness to be an explorative jungle butterfly researcher. My body can’t handle the heat and humidity. It’s like my pale Nordic skin doesn’t know how to deal with this intensity of stimuli,Continue reading “the butterfly expert that never could be”
reflections in a rain forest (March 27)
On a trunk in the middle of Sapo: It doesn’t get quiet. Birds, insects, monkeys. The gurgling from the stream, drops that are still falling from yesterday’s rain. A slow journey from the top canopy, leaf by leaf, down to the soft ground. The inhalation stays on my tongue, a sweet whisper. Rotting leaves. ItContinue reading “reflections in a rain forest (March 27)”
amphibian safari (March 27)
We didn’t see any monkeys in Sapo National Park, even though we heard both chimpanzees and Diana monkeys. We barely even saw any birds, through all the leaves and moss. Plenty of insects, and some bats scared us half to death when they flew out of a tree by the river, but that’s about it.Continue reading “amphibian safari (March 27)”
the butterfly expert that never was
There were barely any flowers at all in Sapo National Park, probably because it was in the end of the dry season – but the butterflies were everywhere! Huge, colorful, blue, orange, black, yellow. But so flighty. Not one allowed me to get close. I wish I’d had my telelens. It’s great for photographing skittishContinue reading “the butterfly expert that never was”
traces of an elephant (March 27)
At the edge of the Sapo base camp clearing, there was a small mound with several small saplings growing out of it. Augustin pointed it out to me and said: “That is a pile of elephant dung. They wander through here on their way up to the mountains”. I was baffled, amazed at the thoughtContinue reading “traces of an elephant (March 27)”
chasing chimpanzees (March 27)
The other day in Sapo National Park, Liberia, we got up before the sun to have a chance to see some chimpanzees. The canopy was dripping with dew and leftover rain, and when the sun started rising, it made the air glow. We sat on logs, listening to the sounds of the forest, and Augustin,Continue reading “chasing chimpanzees (March 27)”
oh god, how time flies when you’re just trying to stay afloat
It’s mid-June, and it’s raining. I’ve developed an obsession for rhubarb. I’ve been buying rhubarb from grocery stores in town and biking home on a borrowed bike with rhubarb stalks sticking out of the basket. I make rhubarb and strawberry sauce. The freezer is full. Luckily, I don’t have to share it with anyone anymore.Continue reading “oh god, how time flies when you’re just trying to stay afloat”
Katja Malmborg 