meditation for the soil scientist (Written on November 21)

The last day in Ouahigouya I went with Elli to Reko to watch her make a last set of infiltration measurements.

_MG_3285

Watching bubbles float to the surface in a see-through plastic tube filled with water is mesmerizing. My thoughts got all soft and contour-less, and after a while I couldn’t keep my eyes open.

So I laid down under a tree and fell asleep among the thyme-and-mint-smelling herbs in the yellow afternoon sun. And it really was as nice as it sounds.

gifts and blessings (Written on November 21)

In every village where I have been, doing transect walks and interviews, they have offered me zumkum during the lunch break under the tree in the middle of the village. It is a drink traditionally given to guests, and it is made of small millet flour, sugar, water and sometimes spiced with some wild herb or other. I’ve always taken a sip of it, out of politeness, but because of my potentially hyper-sensitive Swedish stomach, I haven’t dared to properly drink it. It doesn’t taste much, just sweet from the sugar and slightly sour from the small millet.

I have also been given bags of unpeeled groundnuts of varying sizes. It is one of their cash crops, and being in the middle of harvest season, they have plenty of it lying around. I think it’s lovely, the way they all want to give us gifts. We were told, before we came here, that this is a gift-giving culture, and that is really true, but I’d like to think that them giving us groundnuts also shows that they’ve appreciated us visiting them. That they’ve liked having me, and that I must have made a good impression on them.

Every visit has always ended in a long exchange of blessings and good luck wishes. They’ve also said that they will pray for the success of my work. It is touching, really, how much effort they put into showing that they care. It’s a cultural thing, of course, but they are genuine in it too. It’s something you can feel.

Somehow, I feel like receiving that kind of sincerity from strangers would rarely happen in a place like Sweden. And in a sense, I feel like I don’t really deserve it. I’m only a student, after all. What can I really achieve? But now, with all these blessings and prayers for the success of my project, I would have to screw up really really badly for it to fail. If prayers are what makes a master thesis pass, my project can’t get anything less than an A.

Now we have bags and bags of unpeeled groundnuts. Me and Elli spend the evenings watching Community and peeling them, but the amount of nuts in the unpeeled bags never seem to decrease. The peeling makes our fingers hurt. I’m not sure if we’ll ever be able to peel them all.

_MG_3303

the Ouaga break (Written on November 20)

After three days in a town called Gourcy, situated a little bit closer to Ouahigouya than Ouagadougou, we arrived back in the capital on Monday evening. Since then, I’ve been transcribing notes, going through photographs and making map sketches. Elli got sick the last night in Gourcy, and she’s just now starting to get better, so. This little hoped-for reprieve here at the cozy guesthouse in Ouaga hasn’t really been much of a break at all. Instead, work and convalesce is what we’ve been doing.

But yesterday afternoon, when buying water at the neighborhood grocery store, I found some German-produced chocolate pudding in a fridge.

I just had to buy it. So last night, I ate chocolate pudding AND papaya for dessert in an air-conditioned room. Luxury beyond measure.

Now, finally, I’ll get a chance to update you on what’s happened since I wrote last.

a re-awakened love for numbers (Written on November 20)

I’m a geographer, so the concept of projections and coordinate systems is nothing new to me. But working here, walking around with a GPS device and then having to produce map sketches of the places that I have just visited, connecting real-world experiences with points in a shapefile, well, it has made me realize just how ingenious the concepts of longitude and latitude really are.

There is an order in it, and a simplicity, that I feel an incredible fascination for. That every spot on the Earth’s surface has a unique number connected to it. That I can stand in the middle of a uncommonly dense shrubland, log a point in my GPS device, and then copy the coordinates into the search field of Google Maps, and there it is! The much darker gray-green blob among the beige-green surrounding fields on a high-resolution satellite image.

Especially that, being able to almost step by step re-live my transect walks through feeding in the coordinates of my points into Google Maps has been pure adventure for me. Seeing the depressions and fallows and hills from this heavenly persective is something unconditionally enjoyable for the geographer in me.

I’ve also been using an app called PDFMaps in my tablet, to look at the preliminary satellite image landcover classifications that I made before coming here. And also there, I can’t help myself in all my excitement: here the map says I’m walking through a depression, but what it really is is a very dense shrubland, or here I’ve classified a patch of bare soil, but in reality it’s a seasonal dam – to be able to follow the blue dot on the tablet screen and see all the flaws of my classification, but also understand why I and the computer made the mistake. A depression isn’t only high in biomass, it also runs like a green river through the landscape. Or a dam might easily be mistaken for barren, bare soil, because much of the year it is exactly that. But it’s usefulness for people, being a storage of water during at least half of the dry season, is so much higher than what an ordinary, dry, flat surface would ever be. I need to add more rules into my classification, make it more nuanced, and I know that thanks to the GPS satellites floating around there in space.

_MG_3271

Really, I am amazed. My brain, that loves putting things in neat boxes, can’t get enough. This amazing bridge between the real world and my georeferenced digital files through a system of numbers. And how hands-on my use of it has been down here. There are no words.

I really am a nerd. Getting this excited over a bunch of numbers.

so, what happened with the coup? (Written on November 19)

I did a lot of writing about the events that weren’t quite a military coup, but that had too much military involvement to only be a public uprising, back when there was a lot of action going on and Elli and I were put under house arrest for safety reasons. It had quite a toll on my mental stability, being locked up like that, and as soon as we were allowed to get out of our room, we plunged into fieldwork and there was no time to follow the more peaceful, but very significant developments that took place after the demonstrations.

Now things are quite settled here, after a couple of weeks of negotiations, so I thought it might be nice to give you a summary of what’s happened. To get some closure, in a sense.

As I wrote, the military took power after former president Blaise Compaoré resigned and left the country. At first, it seemed like it might become problematic, since different officers declared themselves as heads of the country, but eventually everything settled on a man called Zida. According to the constitution, elections should be held a minimum of 90 days after the president resigned, but the military had declared a state of emergency and that the constitution didn’t apply anymore.

The presidents of Ghana, Côte d’Ivore and Nigeria came to the rescue and negotiations got started between the military and the opposition parties. The African Union set a dead-line of two weeks for electing a civil transition leader, but Zida said that that wouldn’t happen. This needed to take time, he said, and they wouldn’t stress things.

One thing that complicated matters was that all the most natural potential civil transition leaders are politically active, and will want to run for the presidency once the real elections are held. The transition leader cannot run for president, so, that ruled out most candidates.

However, a week or so ago, a transition plan was agreed upon, in which a one year transition period was settled. This in order to give the country and its politicians and people time to transition into a society where democratic elections can be held. In November 2015, the real president will be elected.

And on Sunday night, Michael Kafando was chosen as the transition leader of the country. Kafando is 72 years old and was the Burkinabe ambassador in the UN from the late 1990s to 2011. He has plenty of experience, and the people that I’ve spoken to seem to think he’s a good choice. A politician, but not too entwined in Compaorés net to be a new version of the president they just got rid of.

So, what could have turned really ugly at one point, ended up being a quite civil process after all, considering an African leader was ousted. Except for a couple of protesters, no one was killed, and a couple of buildings were burned in the capital, but now it actually looks like Burkina Faso has the potential to start turning into a democracy.

It is all quite exhilarating, really. Kind of like a late onset Arab spring in a small part of the Sahel. And I was here. Too busy working and with too low proficiency in French to completely follow all the developments in detail, but still. This was quite different from the disappointing elections we had in Sweden this year, I can say that at least.

IMG_7699

the Summary – why we are here (written on November 19)

I’ve been writing a lot about certain aspects of my project here, but I’m actually not sure if I’ve ever written anything about the project as a whole. What it is all about. What are all these transect walks good for? Why has Elli dug up all this soil? What are we even here for? Well, now that we’re back in the (relative) luxury of Ouagadougou, I thought it would be good practice for me to tell you a little bit about the research, both because it’ll give you context and you might find it interesting, but also because it is good for me to actually describe what I’m doing in lay terms, outside of the scientific-resilience bubble that I’m living in. So, here’s my attempt at making it understandable.

The Project

Elli and I are both part of a bigger project that is run by the Landscapes theme at Stockholm Resilience Centre in collaboration with researchers from SEI, the human geography department at Stockholm University, and INERA, a governmental research institute here in Burkina Faso focused on agriculture.

The project was started parallell to a number of other research projects on the so-called re-greening Sahel. Basically, some time ago, some remote sensing people noticed that parts of mostly western Sahel had seen an increase in biomass during the last couple of decades (based on satellite image data) that could not be explained by changes in percipitation. This has led to a number of different kinds of studies on what this increase in biomass actually means, on the ground.

Our project focuses on the impact on humans of the re-greening through studying ecosystem services and their connection to different parts of the landscape.

Ecosystem services is a concept that can be used to clarify different kinds of services that are provided by ecosystems to society, such as clean water or pollination. Services that might not be possible to put a price tag on but that are essential nonetheless. It is not a completely uncontroversial concept, and there are definite problems with it, but I personally think that its pragmatic approach to making ecosystem processes understandable from a societal point of view definitely holds potential.

What part of this SRC Re-greening Sahel project has tried to map, are a type of ecosystem services called provisioning services, that is, services that are directly beneficial to people. It can be anything from farmed crops to grass that animals can graze, and they are generally the most straigtforward to identify.

Most people here in Burkina Faso are reliant on the land for their livelihoods, and the landscape is multifunctional. Basically, people get a big variety of things from the ecosystems around them. Therefore, to understand this multifunctionality better, and its importance for the resilience of peoples livelihoods, the project has developed a new concept called ecotopes. They are landscape types that provide a certain set of provisioning ecosystem services. A PhD student, Hanna, together with my supervisor and some other researchers, have identified the services and ecotopes, and then made detailed maps of the ecotopes in six villages here in northern Burkina Faso. This is useful, because it can illuminate the spread of ecosystem services in the landscape, where they are physically provided and what there might be a lot or very little of.

My project

This is where my project comes in. Hanna’s ecotopes and the maps that she has made are very detailed and have been very time-consuming to produce. To be useful for policy and management, the results need to be made more large-scale. So, my task is to investigate, first, if these ecotopes can be generalized on a more regional scale here (do the same kinds of landscape types provide the same ecosystem services to people?), and second, is it possible to make a regional scale mapping of the ecotopes using free satellite imagery (that is, a landcover/land use classification of Landsat images).

To do this, I have been doing participatory transect walks. Generally, in remote sensing, groundtruthing is done through visits to random points in the study area. The degree of correspondence between the ”ground truth” and the classified map gives a percentage on the accuracy of the map.

However, this is not possible here. First, because many areas are inaccessible by car here, and second, because going to random points without knowing the context of the place would completely make me miss the social relevance of it. Therefore, I have chosen a number of random villages. In these villages, I have (and still will) gone on walks with 1-4 villagers, two walks per village, and asked them questions about the things that we see, while taking GPS points, photographs and notes. By doing this, I have tried to get an understanding for both the ecosystem services provided in the different places, at the same time as getting socially relevant groundtruthing points for checking the accuracy of my satellite image classification.

This has been exhausting work, walking about 10 kilometers per village in the ruthless Sahelian sun, forcing thorny shrubs and inhospitable, stoney hills. This far, I have done eight villages. In two weeks, I will have done five more. But even though every walk completely drains me, and the questions that I ask have started to bore me (because, luckily for the project, the answers that people give me are very similar), but I can still enjoy it. I like walking. And I like landscapes. I know that sounds incredibly vague, landscapes, that’s just like saying I like the whole Earth. But I like how flowers and trees and hills make up a whole, I like exploring the nuances, I like seeing how all these details make up a fabric where people and animals can live. And how they live. Most of the time I don’t know what I’m doing, scientifically speaking, but be as it may with that. At least I got some personal enjoyment out of my fieldwork.

_MG_3367 _MG_3375

The participatory aspect of my method is that I walk with the villagers. However, it is easy that things get misunderstood in interviews, especially if there are culture differences and language barriers involved. Therefore, I have chosen (after being recommended to do so by a human geography researcher in the Re-greening Sahel team) to quickly do a first, preliminary analysis of my gathered data, and then return to the villages and present it, to make sure that they agree with my interpretation of things. With me, as a presentation of my results, I’ve brought photographs of the different ecotopes and a map sketch made in Google Maps where our transect paths and the ecotopes that we saw have been added on top of a high resolution satellite image. There’s been a lot of cut-and-pasting going on to produce them, and the printing facilities in Ouahigouya were very limited, so I was forced to show the map sketches on my tablet. But, surprisingly enough, it has worked. The villagers have looked at the map sketch solemnly, with interest, and nodded in recognition when I’ve explained where different places are situated on it.

I’ve also shown them the photos of some typical examples of the ecotopes, and explained what I think the uses in them are. Mostly the villagers have agreed with my analysis, but there has always been some small addition, maybe, or clarifications. The existence of dams in some of the villages has led to some discussions, and the degree to which they use different ecotopes to pick wild fruits and medicinal plants seem to differ a bit.

When I first decided to do these feedback sessions in the villages, I didn’t really know how to approach the meeting. On the one hand, it is important to make sure I’ve understood things, and to give the villagers an opportunity to correct me if I’ve misunderstood. But there is also the issue of putting things on a good, understandable level. I couldn’t go in and talk about the theoretical framework of ecosystem services – but I didn’t want my feedback to be just self-evident things that they all already knew either. Actually, I was quite nervous.

It turned out, though, that I wouldn’t really have had to. People in the villages are incredibly knowledgeable about the land, and their memories are amazing when it concerns what has happened there. They also seem to find anything that concerns the land interesting, which isn’t really weird considering that most of their lives revolves around it. In some villages, this checking session even developed into a more general discussion about the state of things, or about science. In one village, I ended up giving a basic explanation of remote sensing, vegetation monitoring and the re-greening Sahel in particular. And in another village, I ended up presenting the whole SRC Re-Greening project and how all the different pieces of it fit together. These sessions were almost my favorite parts of this entire trip so far. The villagers all seemed so interested and they were so appreciative, thanking me for having come to their village, and wishing me good luck in my work and saying that they were praying for my success, and that it in the future might lead to good things for the entire region.

IMG_3199 IMG_3202

It is both exhilarating and scary, having people putting so much faith in me. I have a responsibility, now, to make sure I make something good with this thesis of mine. I’m not the only one with a vested interest.

Elli’s project

If I am here to try to scale up the results of Hanna, Elli is here to dive into the details. She is looking at indicators for another group of ecosystem services called regulating, and here in particular the ones connected to the soil, to see how they are related to the ecotopes. She’s taken soil samples, for measuring of nutrients, among other things. She’s also measured evaporation using lysimeters made from PVC-pipes in our Ouahigouya hotel room, and water infiltration using an tension infiltrometer. Watching the water slowly float to the surface.

_MG_3156 _MG_3159 _MG_3235 _MG_3278

_MG_3342

Elli, happily weighing her last lysimeter on her last day of evaporation measurements.

They are quite different, our projects, one involving shovels and tubes, and the other one a GPS and a camera. But we’re still reaching for the same goal, and in the end it will all hopefully become a neat, not very little whole.

Either way, she’s been an incredible support for me here and it is of course impossible to say, but, I feel like I wouldn’t have been able to do this work without her. Not going alone is the best almost chance thing that could have happened to my fieldwork experience.

IMG_3283

INTERMISSION

Dear readers.

As you probably have noticed, I’ve been very quiet here lately. First, it was because I had to do the last transect walks in Gourcy, three villages in three days, and that simply didn’t give any time to write. Then, once we were back in Ouaga, I had to log photographs and transcribe notes and make rudimentary maps. And finally, when that was all done, I started writing. But, you know, I am the meticulous kind, and I wanted to get a complete overview of what I was going to write, which photographs I was going to illustrate the posts with and in which order I was going to put them in. Quite a mission, I must admit. Well, when I was almost done, the internet at Chez Tess crashed. Actually, the internet in the entire city seemed to crash.. Nothing worked. And then, I had to get out into the field again, this time to Kaya.

So now, I’m sitting here, back in Ouaga with working internet again, with a whole bunch of posts, basically from November 15th and on. Seventeen pages worth of text, and countless edited photographs.

I want to put it all up, and fast, to get back on track. But that means that for those of you who strive for reading everything, and especially those of you who subscribe, will have a nightmarishly long list of new posts to wade through. I apologize for that, and hope that that won’t make you give up on this little blog of mine completely.

I’ll put things up in the order I have written them, with the date of writing in parenthesis in the title to hopefully minimize timeline confusion.

Good luck, and enjoy!

_MG_3971

I met a baobab tree today

I was doing follow-up visits to some of my villages today, and we got a little bit ahead of schedule. And since we were in Teonsogo, we decided to go to the Tor rock formation, so that Elli could see them too.

_MG_3206  IMG_3208_MG_3213

I like stones. I’m a closet geologist. The much nerdier variety of the Earth scientists, and they seem to be having so much more fun than the insecure geographers.

And outside Robena, I met a baobab tree.

_MG_3226

If you’ve read this blog for a while, you are well aware of my feelings toward trees. Baobabs are no exceptions. Rather, the opposite.

_MG_3233

This one was completely hollow. (Is it just me, or does this picture give some quite indecent associations? Not appropriate thought when a magnificent tree is involved. Bad Katja!)