In Kumasi, we stayed at a bed and breakfast called Four Villages Inn. They only had four rooms, and a very shy dog. It was by far the most luxurious place where I had stayed during my time in West Africa. The room was big, the bed enormous and the common rooms decorated exactly like my prejudices told me B&Bs should be decorated, pillows and frills.
It was really nice, though. The calm atmosphere and the softness of the place. In the evening after the market visit, I took a bath. A cold bath. There is a first time for everything, right? It was an interesting feeling, getting into the cold water – but so amazing, after a day of sweat and dust and city noise. And afterwards, the feeling of being completely clean for the first time in ages. That is pretty unbeatable.
The other night, we watched a movie. The inn had a whole shelf with DVDs the guests could borrow, and I picked out Kiss Kiss Bang Bang. My love for Robert Downey Jr. is strong and has outlived many other loves and commitments in my life. This preference is one of the things that Natalia and I first bonded over back in high school when we became friends. If not for anything else, that is something that will always make Robert keep that special place in my heart.
The movie was okay. I had seen it before, one rainy August night in 2008. I remember eating yogurt-covered coconut tops. There’s a story in there too, but not one that I want to tell.

