One of the places that Marek told me to visit was the Vysehrad. It is a fort on a hill in the southern end of central Prague, probably built in the 10th century. Legend has it that the hill is the location of the first Prague settlement – even though any archaeological findings to prove this have as of yet not been found. Today, the fort is a lovely green park, with an nice view of the river and the city.
The view of the river from the fort walls
What makes a visit to Vysehrad well worth the effort to visit is the Basilica of St. Peter and St. Paul. It was originally founded in 1070-1080, but has since then burned down and been rebuilt in Gothic and neo-Gothic style. But really, from the outside, the basilica doesn’t look like much.
The doors are nice, but it’s what’s behind them that takes your breath away.
The wall and ceiling decorations in this small basilica are exquisite.
The earth tones created such a calming atmosphere.
And the paintings themselves were incredibly beautiful. These angels, all the flowers, the detail!
And the paintings of saints on the pillars. I’m quite sure this style is late 18th century, so the basilica must have been renovated many times since the 11th century – but it made for such a refreshing and nice change from all the dark and heavy icons of Jesus on the cross and Virgin Mary that had decorated the walls in most of the other churches and cathedrals that I visited during my trip.
I sat in the basilica, just watching the walls and the ceiling, constantly seeing new things. I couldn’t get enough of it, that’s how amazed I was. And I thought: this must be the most beautiful church I’ve ever been in. Pardon me, it might have been the mood I was in, and honestly, how can memories every compare to the real thing the moment you’re there. So I might have exaggerated a little. But I’m certain that in the context of my eurotrip, this was really something extra. Traveling through Europe, you end up seeing many many churches – but my favorite among all the huge cathedrals and gilded domes, turned out to be this small, insignificant basilica in Prague. It was magical.
Katja Malmborg 